On our visit to Assisi we ate plenty of truffles—mixed into pasta, tucked beneath eggs and shaved over pizza. In Umbria, truffles are everywhere: they’re abundant, flavorful and far more affordable than they are in the United States.

But the truffles weren’t the highlight of the trip. The best memory was a blustery day when Keith and I explored every corner of an ancient castle by ourselves. The wind whipped around the battlements and the views were unforgettable.